Re: Tuning shrouds

SolarFry@aol.com
Mon, 19 Oct 1998 16:26:58 EDT


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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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After all is said... objective is for mast to remain straight under medium to
light loads.

Copy N1122@mail.aai.arco.com (Clair&Edgar) except if you plan to raise and
lower mast and do not have backstay, shrouds opposite windward side will
appear slightly slack without mast being lose. Remember objective: Straight
mast, without pounding (boinging) up and down on cabin top).

Important thing is that length of screw inside each turnbuckle for
corresponding shroud be equal to opposite side after tightening both by hand
to max (but not going overboard on this). So measuring the length of screw
inside turnbuckle is effective in tuning rig, as a straight mast is the
objective rather than super tight shrouds. If you overtighten you will have to
de-adjust shrouds to dismount and remount mast, every time you trailer. Being
supper taught is not important, being tight and of equal length is important
as objective is for the mast to be straight under medium loads and upper
portion to bend under heavy loads in order to spill air.

Save the 40 bucks for the tuning gauge and buy some nice soft cushions...
Those cabin cushions are a little to hard to sleep on...

Solar Fry
P19 #1028, "Elusive Margin"
Member: FL Potter Club

In a message dated 98-10-19 12:23:50 EDT, N1122@mail.aai.arco.com
(Clair&Edgar) writes:

To: JBlumhorst@aol.com
CC: wwpotter@tscnet.com

Judy,

I wrestled with the same issue for the first couple of seasons that we
owned our P19. I finally settled for a "manual" approach. I follow this
approach once a year at the beginning of each season. Of course we keep our
boat moored at a marina from May until October, so there is no need for us
to make adjustments more often. First I check to make sure that the stay
turnbuckles are adjusted so that the stays are of equal length (of course
when the mast is down). After raising the mast and setting the stays, I
turn each turnbuckle the same number of turns, one fill turn at a time, for
each side. I repeat this procedure, alternating first the port side then
the starboard side, until I cannot turn the turnbuckle easily by hand any
longer. Checking the stays, the tension is taught, with about an inch of
movement each direction in the middle of the stay from the "normal" stay
position (2" total) . The term "by hand means using no tools, fingers only.
If you use any tools, i.e. pliers, wrench, bars, etc. you really need to be
careful you don't over tighten the stays. After I adjust the stays, I wrap
the turnbuckles lock nuts and pins/retaining rings with riggers tape. We
have sailed in fairly heavy weather conditions, so far, without any
problems. One good indicator that your stays are too loose is when on a
tack or beam reach, the lee side stays are visibly slack, with the windward
stays taught. The stays should not become visibly slack as you change from
starboard to port tack. This my humble and unprofessional opinion of
course, I am not a marine engineer, so therefore..... really don't know
what I am talking about. : - )

Regards,

John & Terrie
P19 Sassea, #950
Lake Chelan, WA


JBlumhorst@aol.com on 10/18/98 07:58:17 PM writes:

To: wwpotter@tscnet.com

Hello Potter-folks,

I replaced parts of the turnbuckle assembly on my P-19 today. My question
is this: how tight should I make my shrouds? I have the older (1985) heavy
duty mast with 1994 5/32" wires. Is there an inexpensive (I wish!) tension
gauge you can recommend or some rule of thumb to follow?

The West Mrine catalog lists a Loos tension gauge for $38.99. Can anyone
recommend the correct tension in pounds for the P-19?

Thanks.

Judith Blumhorst
P-19 #266 "Redwing"
Danville, CA.
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