RE: More Wiring for Dummies...

Eric Johnson (ej@tx3.com)
Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:27:19 -0800


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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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> When we bought the boat, Bruce told us that sailboats under 23 feet don't
> need permanent lights, which happens to be true. (see Chapman,
> 62nd ed., page
> 121, rule 25[d]). Under that rule, all they need is a flashlight
> that they
> can exhibit "in sufficient time to avoid a collision". That's
> what he used.
> For an anchor light, he hoisted a portable up the forestay. We
> inherited the
> anchor light, but I'd rather put proper lights on the boat and
> just keep the
> portable for emergencu use.

I agree you need regular navlights if you'll be operating around other
traffic, which you obviously will be. Also, you're technically only a
sailboat when you're not under motor power.. so i think you need the nav
lights regardless.

> The following are not strictly required but may be used for a boat of the
> P-19's length:
>
> UNDER POWER - Bi-color light (if under 40 feet) at the bow and all-around
> light at top of mast. (if under 12 meters you can use a single all-around
> light in lieu of the separate masthead and stern lights)

This doesn't sound right to me. I've double-checked my setup and in addition
to a bicolor bow light, you need a sternlight and a 225 degree light forward
on the mast. There's probably other options you can use. Maybe that's what
you're saying. I don't think you can run both a sternlight AND a 360-degree
light on the mast at the same time.

> SAILING - Bi-color at the bow (if under 40 feet) & stern lights

agreed. I highly recommend using a transom/vertical mounted sternlight that
fits into the transom instead of the thing that sits above the transom. The
vertical mount won't mess up your night vision, is difficult to burn
yourself on, and won't have nearly the leak potential of the top-mounted
one. I recently switch mine to this type and am extremely happy with the
results.

> AT ANCHOR - all around light at top of mast

Not legally necessary in a boat our size if anchored outside a fairway. Your
portable should work fine if you really want one.

> I figure I need to wire in the following:
>
> A) Nav Lights for running under power: Bicolor at bow,
> all-around light on
> masthead. I need to buy a waterproof connector for putting thru
> the cabin
> roof; need to run the correct type of wire up through the mast ;
> there is an
> existing connector for the VHF antenna thru the roof already
>
> B) Nav lights for Sailing: Bi-color at the bow and stern light

Consider my setup i described above. With that, you run the bow and
sternlights all the time, and if motoring, you also turn on the 225-degree
forward light on the mast. Its a simple wiring setup - one switch for
'running lights' and another for 'steaming light' (which on my boat is
mislabelled 'anchor light'). Both switches ON under power, steaming light
off under sail. I also turn on the steaming light (only) at anchor, but mine
isn't technically a 360-degree light, but i figured the visibility wouldn't
hurt and I don't legally need a light anyways.

> C) Nav lights for anchoring - all around light at masthead.

if you're up to the wiring. but you can skip it. I do recommend running
lights though.

> See A above.
>
> D) VHF radio

I use a handheld, so I can't help you there.

> E) Cabin light with on/off switch, dual red & white bulb, with dimmer)

Great idea. I've thought of switching mine to a dual setup too, after i did
that Westsail cruise a few weeks ago. Was nice to plot courses without
blowing out my night vision.

> F) 3 Cigarette adaptors for cell phone, eventual GPS, portable boom box,
> search light, air compressor for inflatable dinghy. I really
> doubt that I'd
> wire in a permanent stereo.

I thought so too... but I find having music very handy, and after having
portable VHF, GPS, cell phone, etc i've got so bloody many things flopping
around all over the place i decided to wire in a fixed-mount stereo. I've
got most of the components, but haven't put it all together yet. Still
deciding on speakers.

> G) "Dash-board" lights for compass and depth sounder.

I wire these into my running light circuit. I need to find a red bulb for my
compass though. I like to keep my night vision.

> H) Whatever else I need for the depth sounder transducer. I
> believe that the
> manufacturers usually ask you to wire everything directly to the
> battery via a
> fused circuit, but that doesn't seem quite right to me.

Most of us, I believe, have a small electrical panel with switches and fuses
near the battery. My panel is on the vertical surface aft of the head
compartment (which i think is the battery compartment in newer P19s. Makes
it easy to change fuses and its nice to have a separate switch for each
circuit.

> I) In the future, maybe an electric water pump. It's not really
> important - I
> have one in my camper and I like it, but at sea it's just one
> more circuit to
> short out. Bruce removed all the plumbing (the faucet and the
> drain) and used
> the sink for storage. From what I hear, nobody uses the sink.

I don't. :)

> Maybe I should
> leave it that way. That's where we throw all our junk while
> we're sailing.

me too. If you do decide to hook up the water system, Don Casey in his book
highly recommends a foot pump for reliability and water conservation. He
claims you'll just waste way too much water with an electric pump, and hand
pumps are a pain cuz it makes it hard to do anything with both hands.

> I) Cockpit light - haven't given this much thought, but it seems like a
> practical convenience for camping. Should use a yellow bulb to
> deter bugs. I
> guess it would go on the mast, but I'd be concerned about
> damaging it while
> the mast was down for trailering. Any practical suggestions?

You might want to wait on that one to see if you'll really need it. I always
just have a flashlight handy or hang out in the cabin.

> My boat came with a slick battery box with three fused circuits which use
> jacks. That's how I'm presently using my VHF. It also has a battery
> indicator.
>
> The original factory wiring has already been lead to the bow, the
> stern, the
> battery tray, and the 3 panel circuit. It's just lying coiled up at each
> location. I don't know what kind of wire it is, I'd have to look
> to see if
> there's any wayto tell if it's the right type for marine
> installation. I've
> read that you're supposed to use
> special tinned wire.

Yeah, you should for longevity. I don't know if the original wiring in my
#461 is marine grade (probably not), but the circuits I've added have been.

> The foot of the mast is open, so I hope it won't be difficult to snake the
> wire up the mast. I would appreciate suggestions on how to keep
> the wire from
> slapping against the mast at while we're tying to sleep.

Making little 'stars' out of cable ties is said to work wonders. Casey
suggests making a conduit out of PVC...