Re: Cam Cleats or Clutch?

JBlumhorst@aol.com
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 02:10:56 EST


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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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In a message dated 3/8/99 9:50:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
spooner@gateway.net writes:

> When I get my new P-19 in a few weeks should I be shoppinig for cam
> cleats or rope clutches to run the lines aft? What is the difference
> between the two? BTW what is a fiddle block? Growing up as a kid in the
> town of Falmouth on Cape Cod we just sailed and I never learned all the
> fancy jargon...but I'm learning!
> Thanks again...John in CO
>

Hi John,

Oh no, John, you've started another string that's really technical <grin>.

Anybody who doesn't want to hear some tech talk should click on "close" or
"delete" right now. <g>

Okay, now that there's nobody here but us techies, let's see how I can help
you.

I've discussed this same question at length with professional riggers trying
to figure out how to keep the cost of running all my lines aft within reason
or at least less than astronomical. In my case, "all my lines" means 4
reefing lines (I don't like single line reefing and I have two reef points in
my sail for Bay sailing), main halyard, cunningham, spinnaker halyard,
spinnaker pole lift)

There are 2 main reasons for chosing a clutch over a camcleat. Clutches hold
the ropes more securely; they can't be accidently released as easily as
camcleats. So you want to use clutches where ever it would be a disaster if
the line was accidentally released, say by being caught over another line, or
by being tripped over, or any unforeseen clumsiness.

The second reason for using a clutch is that clutches can hold *larger loads*
than a camcleat. So your high tension lines like your main halyard belong in
a clutch, not a cam-cleat.

Please remember there is a very reliable and cheap alternative to a clutch -
an ordinary old-fashioned cleat that you wrap the line around. It can't be
accidentally released, can hold a very large load, and you can use any size
line with it. If you're ony running 4 lines aft (two on each side), you have
plenty of room for two cleats on each side of the cabin top (and a winch on
each side if you so desire). Four lines aft can be enough to virtually
eliminate having to go to the foredeck or go up on the cabin top (as long as
you have a CDI) -- the main halyard, one forward reefing line, one aft
reefing line, and a topping lift. That's how I've got Redwing rigged for now,
while I try to find the time to re-rig her cabin top for "all the lines"

Getting back to the idea of avoiding accidental releases -- One place where an
accidental line release would be a disaster is your forward mainsail reefing
line(s). If that line lets go, the sail fills and rips your slugs off one by
one, like beads on a string. then you've got a very expensive repair, if
there's anything left of the mainsail that's worth repairing. If the aft
reefing line lets go, it's a pain, but it won't ruin your sail or endanger
your safety.

The other place where I consider a clutch to be worth the extra money is your
main halyard. There is quite a high load on the main halyard and I wouldn't
trust a camcleat on a P19. There's a very high load on the main halyard.
Having that line loose tension is a real pain in the ***. BTW, this is one
line you want to get really tight, so you may want to consider using a
cabintop winch to tighten it and using really low stretch (vectran aka
Vizzion) for your main halyard.

Spinlock has just come out with a mini-clutch ( the PX-406) that works well
for small diameter lines, has a lever action release that's more secure than a
traditional cam-cleat, but still has a working load capacity closer to that of
a cam-cleat. They are actually cheaper at about $32 each than good camcleats
with fairleads at about $34. They are also smaller than camcleats with
fairleads, so they take up less of the real estate on the cabin top.

To summarize:
1) Old fashioned cleats work great for securing important lines and can
handle a heavy load safely. They're cheap too, but they take up alot of room
and take time to uncleat and re-cleat.

2) Cam-cleats or something like the Spinlock PX 0406 are adequate for your
aft reefing lines, cunningham, topping lift, spinnaker halyard, pole lift, or
roller reefing line

3) I'd recommend the added load capacity and security of clutches for your
main halyard and your forward reefing lines, at a minimum.

Some other tips I'll pass on -- I'd recommend a mast step plate for attaching
your mast turning blocks (suggestion - try Harken 183 blocks). It's no more
expensive that individual blocks, doesn't require putting holes in your cabin
top, and leaves room for running more lines in the future, even if you only
want two or four right now. I'd also reccomend using double-decker organizers
for turning the lines aft after they pass through your mast turning blocks;
they take up less room. Finally, I'd consider putting a winch on the cabin
top to use with the main halyard and the aft reefing lines. One last tip --
when you lay out all this new hardware on your cabin top, be sure to leave
spaces for your feet so you can stand up there safely!!!

Hope this helps. You can see pictures of the maststep organizer plate at my
website in two places - the page on Maststep plates and the page on Genoa
tracks. I have designed, specified the hardward and laid-out my cabintop, but
I haven't started installing it yet, so there are no pictures yet.

Judy B.

PS A fiddle block has two sheaves in it, one above the other. That's distinct
from a double block, which has two sheaves side by side.

Judith Blumhorst, DC
HMS18/P19 Fleet Cap'n, Potters Yachters
1985 WWP19 #266 Redwing
SF Bay, CA
Visit <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/jblumhorst/HomePage/index.htm">Judy B's
West Wight Potter Pages</A> and <A HREF="http://songbird.com/potter_yachter/">
The Official Web Site of the Potter Yachters</A>