I have a clamcleat on one side so I can adjust the tension, but that would
be unnecessary if you used the stern cleats. I prefer to keep the stern
cleats free for the stern lines.
I mounted my Tiller Tamer on top of the tiller, which is convenient, but
putting it on the bottom would be neater and work as well. On my early
model tiller, the Tamer clamps on so I didn't have to put holes in the
tiller. The screws go through the open center of the tiller and through a
block of wood under the tiller.
Harry Gordon
P14 #234, Manatee
Mountain View, CA
>In a message dated 3/29/99 10:47:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, Jkzimm@aol.com
>writes:
>
><< Should I use a bolt/washer/nut, and if so, how do I access that area
> for the nut and washer? Or are tapping screws sufficient? >>
>
>John,
>
>If you have stern horn cleats, you really don't have to install the cam
>cleats. No drilling required (except to mount the little do-hickey on the
>tiller). You can tie your tiller tamer lines to the horn cleats when you are
>using the tiller lock. It's not exactly the angle for the lines that they
>call for in the directions, but it works just fine. You need to mount the
>tiller attachment as far to the end of the tiller as practical. Just remember
>to leave room for your hand to have a comfortable grip on the tiller. I
>mounted my tiller do-hickey on the bottom of the tiller handle, where it is a
>little more out of the way. When you're not using the tiller tamer, just undo
>the lines from the cleats and let them dangle. The lines will then be totally
>out of the way.
>
>Geoff
>P-15 Lollipop
>N. Lake Tahoe, NV