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West Wight Potter Website at URL
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Im a newby at this cdi stuff
so please bear with me I have a P-19
1 whats the best position for the
furling line cleat
2 does it matter if i put the line
port or starboard
I havnt received my IM lapper yet
does it come with UV protection or
is that additional
3 the deck hardware is pretty chinsy
im glad it was included on the special
4 should i buy a stanchion mount fairlead
for the bow pulpit
5 last dumb question (for now)
what is bedding compound
and hows that work
thanks in advance
George A >>
HI George,
1 - the cleat on my 1985 P19 is on the side of the cabin wall, just forward
of the cockpit. There may be other good locations, but that's where it was
when I bought the boat used with a Harken furler on it.
2- The UV cover is extra. The factory charges $75 for it. That's about the
same as the local saillofts charge around here. You have to put the line to
the same side as your UV cover so the cover ends up on the outside when you
roll the sail. If it's ordered on your sail, you have to run the furling
line down the same side of the boat as the side the cover is on.
4. Personally, I would go for the stanchion fairlead (but it costs more than
a plastic fairlead.) The fewer holes you drill in the deck the better.
However, many people use a $2-$3 plastic fairlead on the deck very
successfully
5. Ah, the joys of using gook 'n putty <grin>. Bedding compound seals
hardware or woodtrim fasteners in the holes you drill in the deck so you
don't get leaks into the cabin or hull. Leaks aren't very nice when you're
underneath them in the cabin, they promote mildew, and they can cause the
wood core of the deck to rot. Be sure to drill the hole the big enough so
you don't lift up the gel coat and top layer of fiberglass as you put the
machine screw though. Avoid forcing a screw through the hole.
Marine grade silicon is impervious to chemicals, reasonably UV resistant,
lasts a long time, not hard to remove the hardware after. It is not very
adhesive, so you have to keep it compressed to form a good gasket.
Polysulfide compounds (like Life Caulk) are among the longest lasting, very
UV resistant, used for stuff like stanchions,cleats, etc that you rarely
remove, and has medium-high adhesive strength. Polysulfide compounds stay
flexible for decades. Life Seal is a combo polyurethane-silicon with better
adhesive powers than plain silicon, better UV resistance, can be used for
fitting you may need to remove. Straight polyurethane compounds are
extremely adhesive -- don't use them if you ever intend to remove the part
(and on a boat, you will eventually have to remove it!) 3M 5200 sealant is
extremely adhesive (maybe a polyurethane?) and used only for fittings that
you never intend to remove, 3M 4200 is moderately adhesive. there are more
to chose from, but these are the most common ones. Some of them don't work
well with ooily woods like teak, so read the package if you're bedding wood.
I use polysulfide for stuff I don't intend to remove often (stanchions,
fairleads, cleats, etc). I use the combination Life Seal
(polyurethane-silicon) for stuff I may need to occassionally remove for
repair or maintenance (like genoa track stops. winches or cam cleats). I
use marine-grade silicon for stuff that never gets stressed (like inspection
ports). I've heard the 3M 4200 is also a very good all-around compound.
I've used it a few times on boats that I no longer own, so I can't tell you
how well it holds up over the long run.
You can use denatured alcohol (or isopropyl in a pinch) to clean up the gooky
mess as you work. I also wear latex gloves, because it's hard to get the
stuff out from under your fingernails. You can also use the denatured
alcohol to remove any wax on the gelcoat so the bedding compound adheres
well. (all boats have wax on the gelcoat from the mold releasing agent or the
top curing coat of polyester resin, so you should remove it before bedding
hardware). You can use masking tape to mask off the surrounding area for a
cleaner job.
Sail magazine has a good article in the April edition on bedding compounds.
3m has a booklet for about $1 available at marine supply stores. My website
has an article about putting tracks on the boat that discusses some bedding
compound choices I made when I installed the tracks.
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/jblumhorst/GennyTracks.html">Installing
Genoa Tracks on a Potter 19
</A> .
Hope this helps.
Judy B.
Judith Blumhorst, DC
HMS18/P19 Fleet Cap'n, Potters Yachters
1985 WWP19 #266 Redwing
(Rigged so a petite woman can solo)
Sailing on SF Bay, CA
(5-35 knot winds, 2-4' chop, 2-6' swells, and currents up to 6 knots)
Visit <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/jblumhorst/HomePage/index.htm">Judy B's
West Wight Potter Pages
</A>
and <A HREF="http://songbird.com/potter_yachter/">The Official Web Site of
the Potter Yachters
</A>