With the trailer in position as just described, I unhook the winch strap
and give the boat a little push. The trailer tilts up and the boat slides
quickly into the water, so quickly that it is a good idea to preset the
rudder to turn the stern away from the dock so the boat's momentum doesn't
cause it to crash into the dock. Of course I have a bow line secured to the
dock or held by a helper on the dock (or I can hold it myself if there is
no dock). I have the rudder and outboard in the raised position when
launching or recovering and have never hit bottom. I have homemade roller
bunks which help, but normal carpeted bunks work about as well so long as
most of the boat's weight is on the keel rollers and the bunks are just
providing stabilization.
To recover, I attach the winch strap to the bow eye and maneuver the boat
to snub the bow against the rear roller, then winch the boat back up onto
the trailer. The boat tends to center itself as you winch it in, but it
helps to have someone keep the stern in position if there is a wind or
current problem. This can usually be done from an adjacent dock. The
trailer tilts down as the bow is pulled against the bow stop. Since you are
not floating the boat onto the trailer, the winch effort is considerable,
so the mechanical advantage of the winch should be matched to your strength
so you can drag the boat up the inclined trailer without too much exertion.
The original one-speed winch on my trailer is adequate, but a lower gear
ratio for the uphill pull would make it easier. My early Potter has a lot
of wood and is heavier than the modern Potters. It also has 90 lb of
batteries next to the centerboard trunk.
I didn't mention a lock pin because my trailer doesn't have one. It has a
little loop of chain that limits the upward travel of the trailer and
allows a limited adjustment where the chain passes through a keyhole slot.
I presume a lock pin should be released either before or after you unhook
the winch strap, depending on how your trailer is balanced.
It was years before I learned the right method of using my tilt-up trailer.
It's actually more difficult to recover with the trailer submerged because
the boat can float sideways and get out of position. But with the trailer
mostly out of the water, the boat's weight is quickly transferred to the
trailer's keel rollers as you winch the boat up. The only drawback is the
increased strain on the winch when recovering, so make sure your strap or
cable is in good condition.
Also be sure no one gets any hands or toes in the mechanism when the
trailer resumes its normal, road attitude as the boat is pulled forward to
the stop. That's never been a problem but is worth remembering, especially
if someone inexperienced is trying to help.
I learned the hard way that standing or walking on the trailer frame during
launching or recovering is a bad idea. I once slipped off and took a big
hunk of flesh out of my shin where it hit a cross member. That was before I
was using my present method. At most ramps, with a dock alongside, I can
hook the strap on the boat at the dock.
That's how it works on a P14/P15. I don't know how well it works with a P19.
Harry Gordon
P14 #234, Manatee
Mountain View, CA
>Ok, let's try this one on for size. What's the advantage of
>the tilt trailer? How is it meant to be used?
>
>I have launched and retrieved Dream Catcher with the trailer
>locked and unlocked, and it doesn't seem to make any difference.
>It may well be that my launching and retrieving skills are
>sadly lacking. Obviously, tilt trailers wouldn't exist if they
>didn't have some use, but what?
>
>Bill B.
>P-19 #454, Dream Catcher
>Nampa, ID