<snip>
> I'll put screws through the inner layer of fiberglass and a
> little into the
> core. I'll size the screws so that 2 or 3 of the full-diameter threads
> pierce the inner fiberglass. The tapered tip of the screw will
> be into the
> core. There's neglible load from the headliner, so that should
> be adequate.
>
> However, your stereo has some weight to it. The fasteners w8ill
> be subject to
> shock loading when you bounce the hull around. So you might want
> a sturdier
> fastening method. You may want to use a longer screw so it goes into the
> core further (but of course, not through the top.)
<snip>
I've got my stereo mounted. The stereo enclosure has pre-drilled holes for
15 #8 screws. I used the 5/8 screws as you suggested. I used sheet metal
screws as I couldn't find genuine tapered wood screws in stainless. I only
have four screws holding it up now, and it seems as strong as necessary. I
may add a few more, but this method works better than I anticipated. I run
an antenna wire between pleats of the curtain. I ran speaker wires behind
the wood trim where the cabintop meets the sides. There are some exposed
wires where they cross the cabintop to the compression post, where the
speakers are, and I've got to come up with a clever way of hiding them. But
overall I think it will work fine.
I also replaced my battery. I had a group 30-series (30h or 30l or
something) that died over the winter. My analog battery meter actually STUCK
at the 100% position, so i didn't realize the battery was being stored
discharged. Even with the battery removed, it still read 100%! so a friend
gave me an old automotive battery that still holds a charge well and I'll
use it until I decide on a more proper marine battery. This new battery
weighs in at only 40lbs where the old one was 56, so its a lot easier to
deal with. I'm not too worried about weight forward of the center of
buoyancy, but I am trying to keep overall weight down as much as is feasible
in order to help light-air performance and ease trailering.
Also, an update on my new hatch boards - per Travaco's recommendation, I
removed the non-cured gluvit with lacquer thinner. Fortuneately, the
coloring beneath stayed about the same as the piece with a cured coat
(slightly darker than the untreated wood), so it should look ok once I start
the varnishing regimen.
One other thing I noticed that some of you might want to try: I was figuring
out my wiring in my boat, and in the course of doing so, I removed my cabin
light fuse. The light remained ON. So something is wired wrong. The switch
works OK though. I think I'm going to completely re-do my wiring to make
sure ALL loads are running through at least one fuse. I think I'll add an
auxiliary fuse block too to support more circuits than just the cabin,
running, and anchor lights on the stock panel.