I have heard this problem mentioned many times about the flip up rudder and how
it isn't easy to get it the
rudder down again. I have suggested to IM to increase the cost of the boat by
adding J24 type all female
pintles and gudgeons and their 1/2" pins($201.00 retail). Because people under
sail, normally pull directly
upward on the line to lower the rudder, resulting in pulling the lower male
pintle, popping it out of the
gudgeon, bending the upper gudgeon by water pressure and pitch of the boat.
In order to avoid this from happening again, Contain the forces by wrapping the
rudder down line,
over the tiller while pulling upward on the tiller itself (tiller becomes a
lever). Do this procedure
about (3) times, you'll see your rudder going down to position.
If you wish to correct this dsign problem forever, order the parts from
Boat/U.S.1999 catalog page
270. Same items offered by US Marine. you'll have to shim the rudder and please
add large backup plates
- not just washers inside the transom
Ted-Milwaukee WWPotter19 "Sea Breeze"
The Costas wrote:
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> West Wight Potter Website at URL
> http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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>
> The question about "How to work the Kick-up Rudder" reminded me of something
> I had once seen but can't remember where, or on what boat. Maybe someone
> out there will be able to fill in the details.
>
> As I remember, the owner had substituted bungee for all, or part of the
> downhaul line so if the rudder hit anything it could pop up (at least part
> of the way). The bungee would eventually pull the rudder back down. Only
> problem I see with this is trying to find the balance between too weak, and
> too strong a bungee. Might be worth looking into.
>
> Larry