First off, realize that what I've done fits on my boat (#439) but may
not on yours. Since the tiller and deck molding are among the least
likely things to change over time, the odds are good that the same
measurements will work for most P19s.
The outboard rudder on the P19 leads to a very high tiller position,
which CREATES a need to adapt the autopilot mounting system. The
autopilot must be level, so the choices are to raise the stationary
end or lower the tiller end.
The stationary end is nominally mounted via a short pedestal which
bolts to a horizontal surface or via a cantilever bracket which bolts
to a vertical surface. The cockpit coaming is a handy horizontal
surface and the cockpit seatback could serve as a usable vertical
surface. I immediately eliminated the latter choice so as not to
interfere with seating.
The pedestal can be ordered in sizes from 1.5" to 3.5". I chose to use
the shortest since I wanted to keep the body of the device as low as
possible, protected by the aft end of the cockpit rail, so as to
minimize accidental disengagement by limb or line. Experience has
shown this to be a good decision.
The mounting pin for tiller end can be mounted on top of the tiller
itself, on any of a range of extension brackets mounted above the
tiller, or on any of the same brackets mounted underneath the tiller.
The high tiller position precludes either of the first two options, so
the decision devolves to how much to raise one end and lower the other
end.
I won't have the measurements at hand until tom'w (OK, OK, I lied!),
but I seem to remember the total height difference to be corrected for
is in the vicinity of 7", implying the need for the 5" drop bracket in
combo with the 1.5" pedestal, for the same combo in 2.5"/4" sizes, or
for the same combo in 3.5"/3" sizes.
I did indeed worry about a bracket under the tiller being in the way
of knees and mainsheet, but a bit of experimentation seemed to show
this as more of an imagined than real problem. Such has indeed been
the case. I used quite large oval head SS machine screws to attach the
bracket to the tiller and countersunk the heads. Presents a reasonable
appearance and a snagless surface.
I mounted the electrical connector (2 in my case) on the coaming
sheltered by the aft loop of the hand rail, keeping the cord out of
the way. If you intend to have a mount on each side (which I do not
recommend as unnecessary and potentially cumbersome), a more central
location for the connector may be called for.
Again, the sizes mentioned above ARE NOT ACCURATE; I'll get the real
measurements tom'w.
Probably the most crucial dimension is the mounting position for the
tiller bracket, since this determines the mechanical advantage and
total adjustment range available to the autopilot. I think I modified
the recommended dimensions by a bit -- for reasons I don't recall --
but whatever I did works well, so it's probably worth copying.
[Speaking of adjustment range, a pushrod extension is needed to center
the actuating rod at neutral helm. I think 4" is the right size but
will check.]
So, here're the sizes I owe you:
size of drop bracket (1,2,3,4,5, or 6 inches)
size of pedestal (1.5")
size of pushrod extension (1,2,3,4,5, or 6 inches)
distance on tiller from the plane of the pintles to the rod
attachment pin
location on he coaming of the pedestal (note that this is
determined by the preceding measurement since the
autopilot must be perpendicular to the tiller in
the neutral position)
Tom'w ... I hope and plan.
Regards,
Bill Combs
WWP 19 #439 (Aug 1987)
"Ursa Minor"
Fort Walton Beach FL
ttursine@gnt.net