> Judy and all,
>
> I have been using a steel pin (1/8"?) to hold the keel down
> because that's what fits the little hole drilled thru trunk and
> keel. I would be interested in using a rubber bunge instead.
>
> Where do you attach the bunge? Comments, ideas welcome.
>
> Ted Duke
> WWPs19 #626 The Duchess
> Mountains of Virginia
>
Hi Ted,
Since I had to come up with a bungee system right at the dock (didn't realize
that I had glass over the bolt hole til then!) I attached a large eyestrap to
the forward surface of the compression post with the longest woodscrews
possible, about 3" up from the floor. I put a heavy shackle on the eyestrap
and ran the bungees through that. On top of the keel, I put another eyetrap
into the wood trim and into the steel keel about 1" aft of the front edge.
I had two long, very heavy duty bungees (industrial strength from a local
hardware specialty store that I use for tying my racing dinghies to their
trailer like a tie down strap). I ran them through the shackle, and hooked
both ends on the eyestrap on the top of the keel.
But that was just, in my mind, a temporary fix until I could drill out the
hole in the keel trunk so I could put a bolt through.
I have two ideas on how I'll "lock down" my keel when the new keel trunk is
in.
Idea #1 -- a better bungee system:
-Use a single large anchor snubber instead of bungees. Snubbers are built to
take heavy shock loads and return to their original shape
-Epoxy a 1" x 4" x 4" wood block onto each side of the keel trunk. Attach
the snubber to the wooden blocks, running from one side of the trunk, over
the top of the keel, and down the other side of the trunk.
- do something on top of the keel to keep the snubber in the correct place
fore and aft -- maybe epxoy or screw some 1/2" thick wood blocks about 1"
apart, or screw on a "beltloop" made of SS or brass. That would keep the
keel from slopping back and forth in the keel trunk and pumping water.
Idea #2:
You could epoxy a block of wood on the aft vertical wall of the keel trunk,
and put two horned jam cleats on it. Run two lines from the top of the keel
down to the cleats, one with a breaking strength of say 200 pounds, the other
with a breaking strength of 2,000 pounds Cleat the thin line tightly so the
keel can't move, leave several inches of slack in the strong line, so the
keel can bounce up a few inches, but is prevented from sliding up in the
event of a knock down.
Anyhow, those are my ideas. Whatcha think about them, webgang?
Judy B