1] Puncture of 'tube-type' flotation -
Make a 'pillow case' type of cover (with possibly a Velcro or lace-up line of
grommets closure) from a sturdy type of material; from expen$ive Sunbrella to cheap
untreated canvas {scraps from an awning shop . . .are there still awning shops?}. This
should provide sufficient abrasion resistance, yet allow fairly complete 'molding' to
the available space. Just remember NOT to fill the tube to a high pressure; about '3/4
full' to allow for fluidity of placement/contact.
2] Motors and trailering -
It's like the line . . . it's not the fall that kills you; it's the sudden
STOP!. Theoretically, if you could trailer (with the mass on the end of it's lever arm)
on a perfectly smooth road, at a steady speed (velocity), there would be effectively no
net effect; the 'system' would remain constant. HOWEVER, with the bumps and jolts of the
potholes, ruts, and expansion joints, each 'hit' produces BOTH a upward AND downward
force (positive and negative G's) on the SPECIFIC POINTS on the transom where the moment
arm (motor mount) is attached.
My transom is reinforced with a 18"x18" piece of 3/4" ply, epoxied into the formed
recess. I have a 60 pound motor (what I understood as the MAXIMUM DESIGN weight). With
the motor secured in the 'up' position, I can still see the transom 'oilcan' slightly if
I move the motor slightly; much less then it would from bouncing along at 55+ mph.
The choice is yours, but to quote, "It is NOT logical".
PS. I would like to see a published comment from the 'Potter Factory' about an 85 pound
motor. That weight is one of the reasons I DIDN'T get a 4-stroke, even though it is a
preferred mode of motive power.
3] Mast Raising System (Precision) -
Very efficient, to say the least. I'll probably fit one up using 3 inch PVC
piping - cheap, corrosion proof, easy to work with, and very strong for it's weight.
Regarding raising and lowering for bridges; study some of the Dutch and
Scandinavian 'sailing barge' designs. They use mast systems to make this chore easily
accomplished due to the canal & bridge systems where they operate. (they also use lee
boards instead of fixed keels)
4] 'Incomplete tacks' {"caught in irons"} -
Someone has suggested carrying a small paddle to move across the wind if a tack
isn't completed.
Holding the sheet until the bow passes through the eye of the wind will usually
forestall getting 'caught in irons'. However, learn to 'scull' with the tiller and
rudder for a literal 'at hand solution; along with backwinding the jib. Depending on the
strength of the wind, you can even sail backwards on the backwinded jib and 'fall off'
onto your new heading.
5] 'Bungee Keel Hold-Down' -
I've already stated what I do on Quahog. But I have thought about elastic
material as well, (along with some sort of 'blocking' to get "1/2" or "1/4" keel depth
for motoring or downwind sailing).
Judy has the idea; the easiest -PURCHASED- way is to use Dock Line Snubbers. The
'however' is that they are only available in specific sizes. I made mine from 3/8 in.
and 1/2 in. shock cord. (the 1/2 in. is too 'stiff' for a boat the mass of a Potter). I
sewed and whipped loops into the ends with tarred Marline, and the fastenings have
withstood two years of weathering. The same technique can be used for the hold down,
and fitted to a specific boat/owners requirements.
The reason for wanting your keel to 'release' is in part determined by the bottom
you sail over. In New England you have a rocky bottom and it is the 'sudden lethal stop'
that is the concern. In the Delaware or Chesapeake it is typically a sand or mud bottom
and it is more the 'gliding into the ooze' sort of situation. (Check your charts
folks!!; Chart #1 gives identification of symbols for types of bottom). I feel a 'hard'
bottom would want a more elastic hold down for less pressure and faster response, then a
'soft' bottom where it's more of a 'rapid push' grounding.
A folding or hinged pad eye (available with Safe Working Loads of 400 to 12,000+
pounds) would make a good, non-ankle gouging attachment point. One, or more, on each
side of the keel trunk. EPOXY in place, using SHORT, STUBBY (NOT through the trunk)
screws for extra support in the shearing direction. The elastic material going over the
'keel cap'. Either fasten the straps permanently, with enough slack to pull them of the
end(s) of the lowered keel (like a sock over your heel), or use some sort of clip or
attachment. Remember the adage about the 'weak link' - I would use a carbiner.
Each boat is a bit different, and each owner has specific concerns. You have to fit
the concept to YOUR sensibilities an MENTAL COMFORT. [any specific questions; I'm always
available]
6] Disabled Sailors -
A few years ago there was a boat line called the Freedom. I think it had a
'wishbone' rig like the Nonsuch. Anyway there was a 20 foot model (I believe) and a
variation that was modified/built SPECIFICALLY for the disabled sailor. There was even a
national group promoting it. I'm sure a number of ideas could be gotten from it, if not
'lifted directly'.
Take a look at sailboat manufacturers listings, the 'net for 'National Disabled
Persons Administration', 'Disabled Sailing (Sailors)', etc.
I'm sure this 'windage' should draw a few 'shots from the bow chasers', so I'll shut-up
and sail into that fog bank ahead; I know the waters.
Regards,
Ron Magen
s/v Quahog {P-19, #575}