You just asked the classic question. If you get any off-list
replies, would you forward them to me? I am also about to add oarlock
sockets to my boat, in the very, very near future, and I'll let you know
what I find out. From past research I've learned that ideally you should
use a strong backing plate, preferably aluminum, and this is what is holding
me up at the moment. Those oarlocks will take a lot of grinding strain.
Also, the sockets should be roughly 24" back from the cabin, I believe.
I've noticed oarlocks on other boats that are only about 20" back, but that
seems too close. I'd probably want to row sitting on a cushion atop the
main cam cleat.
As a temporary measure, I've also thought about running a line from
the stern cleat up through the jib fairlead and cam cleat, taking a few
wraps around the oar. That should at least get you home. Canoe-like
paddling also works, but it is not very efficient.
BTW, I now have a little picture of my boat under my signature. I
wonder if it will make it through the mail server.
Mike
85 P15 #1589, Alexandria VA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Preston [mailto:preston@gencc.com]
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 5:17 PM
To: wwpotter@tscnet.com
Subject: Oarlocks for a P-15
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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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Ok, so I now have the yellow boat at home (still working on
a name) and it
only took $8 in quarters at the Kenmore carwash to get the
great bulk of the
green slime off. . .it's really a pretty nice boat
underneath! The boat
does have cockpit rails (1982 or 3 vintage I think) but does
not have
oarlocks. I'll be by myself a lot, don't trust motors and
don't always end
up with enough wind, so want oars, maybe set up to row
standing facing
forward, but. . .does anybody have photos showing how best
(?) to do it?
Thanks,
Ken Preston
Bainbridge Island, WA