Rerigging keel lift system on P19

From: Ted Duke (tduke@rockbridge.net)
Date: Sun Feb 13 2000 - 09:30:08 PST


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Alan and interested Potterers,

I have updated my original post to answer several questions I have
received. I replied privately to the first two. Since there is
another request I am posting it with revision answering questions
first.

First, the block which turns the lift line from aft toward the
keel on my 1990 is right above the forward end of the starboard
quarter berth. Actually in line with the back wall of the cabin. It
directs the line to a block above the keel. If your "turning block" is
way forward between the windows I would suggest relocating it which
should make it in a stronger area and also reduce some strain as I
understand that the more degrees of turn the more strain (although I
ain't an engnear I knew one oncet <bg>).

Second, what I did was remove the old single blocks over the
keel and on the keel and replace them with the Garhaurer double
blocks, I replaced the stainless wire (which had jumped the track more
than once and damaged the old blocks) with Yale Lite. I tried
3/8ths's, but it was too hard to crank, like the wire. I then went to
1/4", which works really well. Cranks easy, doesn't scratch you when
you brush against it. The double blocks reduce the load when you
crank and also on the line. I am informed by competent persons that
the Yale lite is more than adequate with double blocks. BOATUS catalog
lists 1/4" Yale Lite breaking strength as 2500#. Since the keel
weighs around 310# and the double blocks reduce that by some factor
(ask the engnear) there is plenty of margin. Besides, if it broke I
would rather it was a Yale light line rather than a WILD STAINLESS
WIRE. I never let the keel hang on the lines, just like it never hung
on the wire. It's either resting on the (2) bolts thru the keel
housing when up or resting on the keel housing when down. This should
avoid undue stretching of the line.

Required drilling two new hole thru the cabin roof to match the holes
in the block. I used sealant and as large a washer as I could fit to
spread the strain. I hope this helps. Please ask if I can provide any
other info.

Ted

> Ted Duke wrote originally:
> >
> > > I replaced the single block on keel and the single block above
> > > it with double blocks (I ordered Garhaurer 25-24S and 25-26S). I
> > > replaced the wire with 1/4" Yale Light line. It ran smoother,
> > > but was hard to crank. I replaced the 1/4" with 3/16ths" line
> > > and it is smoother than with wire and easier to crank and
> > > quiet. When you brush on the line in the cabin it is smooth,
> > > not rough like the wire. The line won't cut into the sides of
> > > the block or the block itself.
> > >
> > > I had trouble removing the bolt holding the block on the keel.
> > > Thought it was threaded, but finally used a bigger hammer
> > > (literally). Had to redrill new double block hole to make it
> > > larger, and the block is held with only two bolts, but so was
> > > the single block. I had to drill two new holes in the cabin
> > > top. None of it hard!
> > >
> > > I think it's a definite improvement.
> > >
> > > Ted Duke
> > > WWPs19 #626 The Duchess
> > > Mountains of Virginia
> > >



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