Tuning stays
MR HENRY R DANIELSON (ANWJ93A@prodigy.com)
Tue, 20 Oct 1998 20:55:45, -0500
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Hi,
I have learned several things from tuning various sailboats over
the last thirty years. First, shrouds (on the sides) and stays (fore
and aft) are seldom symmetrical. It would be nice if they were, but
not the norm. Similarly, hulls are often not symmetrical. For that
reason, counting turns on turnbuckles may seem reassuring, but it
does not guarantee a straight mast. What is important is that the
mast be "in column." In other words, it should be straight, not
curved starboard or port. Of course, the mast should be vertical
when the boat is at rest. It should also be straight when the boat
is underway. Whether on starboard or port tack, the mast should not
bend. There should never be an "S" curve in the mast. That is most
dangerous. Of course, it is possible and acceptable to rake the mast
aft with an adjustable backstay.
Regarding shroud tension, the leeward shroud should be somewhat
slack, but not sloppy when the boat is heeled over. I use my hands
with the boat at her mooring to determine appropriate tension. Some
racers like shrouds violin string tight, I prefer considerably less
tension. It is important to remember that you can seriously damage
your hull by over tensioning your shrouds. I have seen boats that
leaked because the keel was forced away from the hull due to over
tensioning. Similarly, it is not uncommon to see a boat with a head
door that won't close because the cabin trunk has been compressed
with an over tensioned deck mounted mast.
Even tension on the shrouds will keep the mast in column and
where it belongs. That is what I have learned in my racing and
cruising career.
Hank P-15 "Tinker" # 1981