Happy to oblige, though with the proviso that I only pretend to be wise
on the night of the new moon. I'm afraid it's about two weeks too
early.
That said, to business. First, however, my belated thanks to John for
the citation for _The Cruising Guide to Lake Champlain_. I don't often
leave correspondence unanswered for two months, but even one time is too
often. My humble and heartfelt apologies.
On to Lake George:
It's a beautiful place, steeped in history. It offers something for
sailors, canoeists, rowers and hikers -- and for hunters, anglers, and
divers, as well. It's not paradise, however. The jet-ski plague is
well-established, and no-octane boaters who want to live long enough to
drive home at the end of the day would do well to keep a weather eye
open for water-ski tow-boats. Of this, more later, but first, the
(somewhat qualified) good news.
HISTORY Lots. I won't even attempt a summary, and, besides, I'd be
scooping myself. Begin by getting a copy of _Adirondack Canoe Waters:
North Flow _ by Paul Jamieson and Donald Morris. Read the chapter on
Lake Champlain and Lake George, and then go on as far as your curiosity
takes you.
SCENIC AMENITIES Much of the eastern shore of the lake is state-owned.
The hills -- small mountains, really -- rise almost straight up from the
shoreline, and a reasonably well-marked and well-maintained network of
hiking trails will take you to most of the summits, as well as to a
handful of inland ponds. The views from some of the peaks -- Black
Mountain, for example, or Sleeping Beauty -- can take your breath away.
If sound didn't carry so well, these places would come very near
paradise indeed. Unfortunately, except when the wind is blowing a gale,
you'll hear every lawnmower, jet-ski, boom-box and barking dog for miles
around -- and in high summer, there are a lot of lawnmowers, jet-skis,
boom-boxes and barking dogs to be heard. When the wind is blowing a
gale, happily, the whistling howl of rushing air is all you'll hear. But
then, of course, the cloud base is usually down almost to lake-level,
and, even if you somehow struggle onto a summit, you'll probably be
blown right off again.
The state also owns a good chunk of the western shore in the vicinity of
the Tongue Mountain Range. This, too, makes a good walk, though if you
want the grand tour, you'd best be prepared to slog 15+ miles, most of
it up- or down-hill. You should also keep your eyes open for
rattlesnakes, especially on sun-warmed rocks and in sheltered rock
crevices. The risk is minimal, to be sure, but you don't want to go
poking any body-parts into places you don't know to be safe. The
Honorable Member from Little Rock didn't follow this advice, and look
what happened.
CAMPING OPPORTUNITIES The state owns more than 150 islands on Lake
George. There are camp-sites on 48 of these, most of them in the
Narrows (the lake's "waist"). They can be reached only by boat and
facilities are primitive. A permit is required and a fee is charged.
All sites used to be first-come first-served, but this may soon change.
Check with the NYS Department of Environmental Conservation (Warrensburg
Office).
The islands are wooded. Many tent sites are nestled in among the trees.
Some of the trees are 80' white pines. Glorious! And dangerous. Some
years back, a friend's niece and three of her girl-friends went off for
a weekend on Lake George. During the last night at their island camp, a
storm brewed up. The girls weren't especially worried: they had good
gear. Early in the morning, when the wind was still shrieking through
the tree-tops, my friend's niece was shaken awake by what she thought
was an earthquake. Then the screaming started. It wasn't an
earthquake. One of the towering island pines had toppled onto the tent
next to hers. Two girls had been in it. Only one crawled out, shaken
but unhurt. The screaming went on and on. The three girls couldn't
shift the pine. The wind went on howling. They couldn't get the
attention of anyone on a neighboring island. When they tried to launch
one of their canoes, it swamped. They tried again. It swamped again.
Finally, just at first light, the screaming stopped. The fourth girl
had died.
The moral of the story? Don't just check out the view before choosing
an island camp-site. Look up at the trees, and ask yourself, "What
if...."
The DEC publishes guides to Lake George trails and campsites. If you
have good vision or a 3X magnifier, you may just be able to find the
maps hidden amidst the ads for boat rentals, emergency care and
char-broiled whoppers. Good luck. The DEC guides are free, and they're
worth every penny of their cost.
ANCHORING AND MOORING Many, though not all, state camp sites have some
sort of rudimentary dock, but shore moorings are prohibited elsewhere on
state lands. You must anchor off, or risk the wrath of the Potty Patrol
(see below). Can you beach your boat? Good question. I wish I knew
the answer.
You may not anchor within 200 ft of any private lands. Anchoring is
not permitted anywhere in Sandy Bay, though a limited number of
day-use-only moorings are available. You may not anchor or moor in
Paradise Bay at any time.
There are several protected underwater wrecks in Lake George. These are
known as "Submerged Heritage Preserves," and they are mapped and buoyed.
Do not anchor over the wrecks; use the mooring buoys provided. You
weren't planning to loot these historic treasures, were you? I didn't
think so. The less scrupulous will risk angering the Potty Patrol and
all their little friends.
WATER QUALITY The water is reasonably clean. Except in the
densely-developed southern bays, it sparkles. You can often see bottom
at 20'-40', and many of the summer camps and year-round residences which
line the western shore get their drinking water directly from the lake.
I wouldn't do it, I admit, but then I'm a cautious old fart.
CHARTS AND MAPS I don't know of any chart covering the lake -- though
I'm sure somebody, perhaps the local squadron of the U. S. Power
Squadron, has produced one. I've navigated the length and breadth of
the lake by canoe (sail and paddle) and kayak (paddle only) without
feeling the need for a chart, and I've never come to grief, but then
I've almost always had my geologist wife along. She seldom overlooks
anything, and she seems to have a sixth sense for underwater rocks. In
any case, the lake is covered by USGS topos in both 15' (1:62,500) and
7 1/2' (1:24,000) series; it's also shown in some detail in the DeLorme
atlas. This atlas is particularly good for planning purposes -- it
shows boat launches, beaches, private camp-sites, and the like. If you
can read contours, it will also give you a pretty good feel for the
topography.
MANDATORY CAUTION Lake George is a pretty big lake, though it's much
longer (30+ miles) than it's wide (3 mi at most). When the wind blows
from the nor'northeast or sou'southwest, along the long axis of the
lake, it kicks up some pretty good waves at the leeward end. A day when
the lake is being swept by a stiff nor'easter is probably not the best
day to learn how to rig and sail a new boat. Canoeists and kayakers,
too, should exercise caution at all times.
THE SHORT ARM OF THE LAW The Potty Patrol wants you! Anyone can dump
any amount of gas and oil in Lake George, provided they do it through an
exhaust pipe. The brown haze that hangs low over some bays on still,
hot summer afternoons has the smell of money, after all. But dare to
piss over the rail of your boat and, before you know it, the Potty
Patrol will clamp a boot on your pizzle and haul you in for "discharging
foul or deleterious substances." This, of course, is only right and
proper. Shame on you!
The moral? Use a Porta-Potty (TM) or hold your water. It's the law.
And don't think you can dump "gray water" in the lake, either. If your
boat has any type of through-hull discharge for toilet, sink or shower,
it must be sealed. As it says in the Potty Patrol's sacred creed, "This
law is strictly enforced. Please excuse any inconvenience as we board
and inspect your wife." And have a nice day.
Oh, yes. The Potty Patrol doesn't come cheap. And it's your job to buy
their donuts. If your boat is more than 18' long (by actual measure) or
if it is "mechanically propelled by greater than 10 horsepower," you're
going to have to buy and display a Lake George registration sticker.
Don't forget to say please and thank-you to the nice man (or woman) who
takes your money.
For the latest -- ahem -- poop on all regulatory matters, visit the
official Potty Patrol Page <http://www.superior.net/~lgpc/>.
To be continued.