I'm NOT an EE, but have had extensive experience with lights NOT working on
various things from Model A Fords to trailers (but fortunately not my
Potter, they work!). Whatever vehicle, boat or object you have lights on
you must provide a GOOD ground back to the BATTERY. If it's a steel
contraption, you can ground to the frame (trailer, steel vessel, auto).
Trailers must ALSO be grounded to the tow vehicle. Your boat, being
non-metallic needs a wire from each device back to the battery. Some boats
have a Ground Wire that all devices attach to and it goes to battery. I
have heard that the recommended way is to have a separate ground for each
device.
Bottom LINE. CHECK YOUR GROUND. If the bulbs are good and the hot wire is
hooked up and the ground is good (ant the FUSE is good) you should have
lights. In my experience I have seldom had a bad power connection but often
had bad grounds.
Ted
Fauver, James wrote:
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> West Wight Potter Website at URL
> http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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> My fellow potterers
>
> I am about to take on the task of tracking down all the problems in my
> electrical system. Rather than list the problems, let me list what
> works:
>
> 1. The interior dome light
>
> Short list eh? She has been like that since the day I bought her
> (used). Will someone please describe the "ground" system on a P19? Is
> everything supposed to be grounded back to one spot, and what is this
> "spot", or are the individual (running) lights grounded somewhere near
> the light? I've seen some electrical diagrams that show only one
> battery terminal hooked into the electrical system, and the circuit's
> other end terminates at "ground", is this really how it is done, or is
> this just some kind of representation of closing the circuit back at the
> battery?
>
> All I am trying to run off the battery now is the lights.
>
> Thanks for any and all responses.
>
> James Fauver
> P19 Southern Star
> Lake Conroe, Texas