Re: Rudder kick-up, kick-off
Eric Pederson (eric@winternet.com)
Fri, 2 Apr 1999 09:08:49 -0600 (CST)
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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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It has been rumored that Dennis Rieger said:
>
> I had a similar problem with my kick-up rudder on my Potter 19. A while
> back someone posted a web site that showed a upgrade someone had made on
> a Macgregor 26, <http://www.mv.com/ipusers/whale/h1rcontrol.html>. I
> used some of the same ideas. I placed a cheek block on the front
> (transom side) of the rudder cheek plates and then added 3 turns of 1/4"
> ( approx. 6-7 feet) bungie cord in series with the rudder lowering
> line. Now the lowering line goes from the cleat and is tied to the
> coiled bungie cord. From the opposite side of the looped bungie cord
> the line continues down around the cheek block to the tie point on the
> rudder. When the rudder hits something it will pop up but then be
> pulled back down by the bungie cord when the obstruction is cleared.
> The tension on the rudder "downhaul" can be adjusted easily at the point
> where the line is cleated. This may not be the clearest explanation
> but the picture on the above web site should help. It is a cheap fix
> that seems to work so far.
I'll take credit for adapting that Mac26 solution to the P-19. I installed
that at the beginning of the season last year and it works very well.
You need to be moving pretty slowly to pull the rudder down or the force
of the water will keep it kicked-up.
The only change I made, which Dennis seems to have not incorporated, is
replacing the looped bungee with a short rubber shock cord. I've had two
shock cords break on me, so maybe the original design is better.
--
Eric L. Pederson
P-19 #970, Necessity
Bloomington, MN