Re: P15 improvements
Tue, 4 May 1999 02:23:34 EDT

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West Wight Potter Website at URL
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In a message dated 5/3/99 6:39:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, writes:

> Things I am going to do before I go out on the ocean again:
> 1. Install one or more cockpit drains at least 2 inches in diameter.
> 2. Fill under the liner, and between the liner and the hull sides with
> pour-in rigid foam.

My '87 has a thin layer of foam between the liner and hull sides already. Are
you sure your later boat doesn't have the same? Exercise caution when using
pour in foam in closed places, it can generate enough pressure (heat too) to
break things

> 3. Replace the hatch "door" with removable boards with an appropriate
> capture system.

Good-bye table?

> Said boards to be stout, well fitted, incorporate interlocks, be
> gasketed, and well married
> to the sliding hatch.
> 4. The keel raise and lower system to be accessible in the cockpit
> (without having to remove the hatch boards). Said system to incorporate
> a positive lowering arrangement capable of opening a jackknifed keel
> against gravity in the case of a turtle.

Let me know when you figure out a good way to do this. Harry is always
clandestinely raising his centerboard (it's in the cockpit on a P-14) on the
downwind legs and trying to sneak that lateen rig by me (successfully, all
too often). I need a counter-measure.

> 5. The relatively dead volume remaining under the cockpit to be filled
> with closed cell block, glassed in.
> 6. Get rid of hand knob on rudder. Replace with none clamp pivot.
> Provide positive raising and lowering of rudder, together with positive
> locks in either attitude.
> 7. Provide a jib downhaul operable from the cockpit.

Fitting a jib downhaul costs less than $15 and is one of the wiser things a
P-15 owner can do. Your experience has amptly demonstrated the lack of
stability a P-15 has when a single-hander goes onto the foredeck.

> 8. Buy a new mast with a much stronger cross section.

A heavier mast may not be what you want to prevent a capsize. Adding weight
with a fifteen foot lever arm over the boat will work against the limited
ability of the centerboard to right the boat.

> 9. Provide lifeline attachment points.
> 10. Use a safety harness.
> 11. Provide suitable reefing points.
> 12. Provide some kind of floatation at top of mast to discourage a
> turtle. (The method used on catamarans).

The Capri 14.2s used for sailing lessons and rentals at a nearby lake have
white plastic "bulbs" with a vague attempt at streamlining attached to the
tops of the masts. Is this the kind of thing you are suggesting?

> 13. Install a heavy duty pump.

Where? Would this be a hand operated pump or an electric?

> 14. Take along a wet suit as emergency survival gear.
> 15. Provide miscellaneous safety equipment, minimum cb radio, maximum,
> you name it.
> 16. Take along spare clothes, towels, in a waterproof container.

What about just keeping a change of dry clothes in the tow car?
> Of course provide the obvious thing such as navigation lights, anchors,
> sea anchor, motor, extra fuel system, charts, compass, GPS, tools, food,
> etc. etc.

I'd get a stainless steel shear pin for that 3.5 of yours.
> I have almost finished my hatch boards, the rudder has been modified, I
> have a keel system designed (not yet installed). I am trying to find 2
> part pour-in foam, and foam block.

Two part foam can be bought at West Marine. Orchard Supply Hardware sells
some stuff in a spray can that might be easier. Styrofoam bead board sold in
2 or 3 inch thick sheets is often sold economically as insulation in places
like Home Depot. You can build blocks by gluing pieces of sheet together .
> Since I do not plan on going out on the ocean for a time, a
> lot of the other things can wait. :)
> Bernie "HMS Pinafore"
Dave Kautz
P-15 #1632 Tilly Lucy
Palo Alto, CA