Hmm. I'll experiment with that technique. so are you sorta 'carving' into
the corners like a skater, keeping up max speed? I notice on some of my
tacks if i hit 'em just right i seem to be going the right speed all the way
through the tack, but i haven't perfected the technique, so I've been
accustomed to losing speed in the tacks, thus my sheeting changes after the
tact. I'd love some pointers on keeping the speed up through the tacks. Now,
I've been beating boats of similar size at the races lately by what i think
is some better tactics - like picking the tack that gives me best VMG and
staying on those tacks as long as is feasible... but if i could keep my
speed up through the tacks I'd have more opportunities to chase windy
sections of the lake and blanket the wind from other boats.
> If you are comfortable with your 3 to 1 setup keep it.
truth be known I keep hardware handy to quickly convert to 4:1 if it gets
real windy :)
>But the
> NEW Potters
> have a 4 to 1 setup with 3 lines on the starboard side and 1 on port. I
> wouldn't think of sailing with a setup like this. You don't need a longer
> mainsheet, or extra hardware to make it right.
We definitely agree thats a silly way to rig it, given the hardware.
hey, what size sheets and halyards do you bay sailors like to use? I'm
running mostly 1/4" everywhere. I think the newer ropes are plenty strong in
the smaller size, though 1/4" is on the small side of whats comfortable to
grip... My only larger line is my main halyard, which i think is 5/16 or
3/8, but i will likely downsize that upon its next replacement with
something strong, thinner (so it wraps on the cleat easier), and low
stretch - maybe Sta-set X. In fact, for outhauls and downhauls I've been
using 3/16 dacron 3-strand for its splicability, and the fact it holds real
well in a v-cleat.