By the way, if you cut metal out of the centerboard, you have to
subtract its mass from that of the lead which replaces it. If I
remember correctly, steel runs 0.29 pounds per cubic inch, so you'd only
gain 0.16 pounds per cubic inch. Assuming that your centerboard is
quarter-inch plate, you would have to replace about 25 square inches to
gain a pound.
Good Luck,
Mark
P-14 #202 "Apres Vous"
Silver Springs, NV
Wm. Longyard wrote:
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> West Wight Potter Website at URL
> http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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> Potterers,
> Tonight I got lucky. A friend of mine clued me in that a doctor
> was having his office remodeled, and that a lead-lined door was
> being tossed out. I jumped in the car, and after Herculean
> effort (and my wife's help!) got the extremely heavy door loaded
> in the back of my station wagon. (Oh, I don't know how I get
> myself into these things!)
>
> My intention is to use the lead to add mass to my keel. I have
> several different ideas how to do this:
>
> 1. Use a plasma cutter to cut out triangles out of of my keel,
> and pour molten lead into the cut-outs.
> 2. Cut the lead sheet into two profiles of my keel, place them on
> either side of the keel and glass everything together.
> 3. Simply rivet the two lead pieces to the sides of the keel.
>
> I would like to hear your opinions of these options. Remember, I
> have a Siren 17 with a swing keel. It looks like I enough room
> to put a sandwich of lead on the present keel and still be able
> to retract it.
>
> Does anyone know the weight of a 3/16" one square foot of lead?
> The door is about 20 square feet.
>
> Also, I'd like to know if anyone know how to separate the wood
> from the lead sheet? Are the wood door panels simply glued onto
> the lead? What kind of glue, contact glue? Anyone know?
>
> Looking forward to all your great ideas and suggestions,
> Bill Longyard