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West Wight Potter Mailing List maintainer
dfarrell@ridgecrest.ca.us
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On Fri, Jan 07, 2000 at 06:38:28AM -0800, Bruce ParkJr wrote:
>
> I have a few projects I'd like to get started on,
> perhaps some of you can help me out with parts lists,
> ideas and methods. I have a P-19.
>
> 1) Lazyjack system. I've read an article recently in
> Sail magazine and think I can make one. I need a
> materials list and how to fasten to the mast,
> locations, etc.
I used: four eyestraps, two small blocks and however much 1/8" line.
Two of the eyestraps are on either side of the mast, 10-12' up. Attached
to each of these eyestraps is 2-3 feet of the line with a block hanging
from the free end. The other two eyestraps are on the underside of the
boom. The forward one is aligned with the cleat that the factory installs
for the jiffy reefing system. The after eyestrap is... hmmm... about
4-5 feet further aft. Sorry about the imprecise measurements; this is
all from memory.
Anyway, I tie one end of a long piece of line to the forward eyestrap on
the boom, run it up to the port block hanging off the mast, back through
the aft mast eyestrap, up to the starboard block hanging from the mast,
then down to the aforementioned jiffy reefing cleat, which I no longer
use for reefing.
> 2) Reefing. I have reef points on the main, but that
> is it. I encountered a time last summer on Lake
> Michigan when I really needed to reef badly and
> discovered it wasn't an option. Aside from reef points
> on the main, what hardware do I need to have and
> again, where does it mount?
That depends upon which style of reefing you want to employ. Your options
are jiffy reefing (which generally comes with the Potter 19, I think),
single-line reefing or double-line reefing.
With the jiffy reefing that comes with the Potters, you have some sort of
eyestrap and a cheek block mounted aft on the boom on opposite sides.
Forward on the boom, on the same side as the cheek block, you have a cleat.
The gooseneck needs to have a tack hook. The reefing line runs from the
eyestrap, up through the reefing clew grommet, down to the block and
forward to the cleat.
Single-line reefing eliminates the cleat on the boom, adding another cheek
block just behind the gooseneck. Make sure it is far enough aft to not
weaken the end of the boom with too many holes close together. The reefing
line, instead of cleating to the boom, continues forward through the cheek
block, up through the reefing tack grommet and down. From there, it can
be cleated on the mast, or led aft to the cockpit.
Double-line reefing uses two seperate lines for the clew and the tack. They
can be cleated to the boom, mast, or led to the cockpit.
For a second set of reefing points, double your hardware requirements. I
think most sailors here would suggest a minimum of two reef points. Most
of us think that the single set that come with the factory sail is too
shallow.
> 3) Cutting a new storage hatch below. I want to expand
> my storage capabilities. It looks like a good way to
> do this is to mirror the storage hatch on the port
> side where the cooler is, on the starboard side. The
> type of saw blade, preparation (so as not to wreck the
> finish) and procedures would be greatly appreciated.
We cut a 14x15 opening using a saber saw. Metal cutting blades (24 teeth
per inch or better) are recommended for fiberglass. After marking the
outline, we drilled the one-inch finger hole first, so we could hold up
the cutout as we neared the end of the cutting. We saved the cutout for
use as the hatch. My saber saw base is already covered with a layer of
cardboard to prevent scuffing - you might want to do that with yours.
I've had people suggest covering your outline marks with masking tape to
prevent the fiberglass from chipping as you cut. I've tried it, but I'm
not sold on the idea. Your choice. Anyway, cut the opening and mount the
hatch. You'll need hinges, hardware to mount them, and something for the
hatch to rest on in the closed position so it doesn't just swing all the
way down into the compartment. We used backing plates for this, through
bolted to the liner. We used two hinges as well. I thought I had pictures
of this, but I can't find them.
-- Eric L. Pederson P-19 #970, Necessity Bloomington, MN
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