Re: Winter Projects

From: Bill Wallace (billw@rdmcorp.com)
Date: Fri Jan 07 2000 - 08:28:10 PST


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> > 2) Reefing. = Aside from=20 reef points on the main, what hardware do I
> need to have and again, = where does=20 it mount?
>You need a reef hook to replace the = gooseneck pin=20 (Racelite part, get
>it from IM); a cheek block mounted on the boom so = that, when=20 reefed,
>the outhaul pull from the clew is 60=BA down and 30=BA aft (or = by
>eyeball=20 is a continuation of the leech), and a cleat to secure the
>reefed=20 outhaul.

There is a really good diagram of various reefing styles in the "Annapolis
Book of Seamanship". I got it out of the library and photocopied the
relevant pages. It is by far the best diagram I've seen.

> >
> > 3) The type of saw blade, preparation (so = as not=20 to wreck the
> finish) and procedures would be greatly appreciated. I = used a=20 jigsaw
> for this type of operation, but a thin router bit or rotozip = spiral
> cut=20 bit would be better if you have room. Jigsaw cuts on upstroke, so
> = you need=20 to use a fine tooth (metal cutting OK) and go very slow to
> avoid=20 splintering. Since you probably want to save the cutout to use
> as = the=20 hatch, the cut should be continuous. Make a cardboard
> template, = cover the=20 outline of the cut with tape (helps reduce
> splintering) draw the outline = on the=20 tape, make a plunge cut and go
> at it. I used 1 1/2 inch wide = flat 1/8"=20 aluminium stock (from Home
> Depot) to make a 3/4 inch lip all the = way around=20 the new opening for
> strength.

You can purchase both up-cut and down-cut metal cutting jigsaw bits. The
down-cut work best when you are cutting well-supported fibreglass (ie close
to an edge). They don't work so well if the fibreglass can easily
vibrate. The up-cut blades work best when the fibreglass isn't well
supported. Get a package of good quality blades, and change blades quite
often (quality make a HUGE difference in how well the blade cuts, and makes
some difference in how long blades last.

Also, you can get a molding circular saw with a 4" circular blade. Get an
appropriate blade and do the cut. The blade should stick down about 1/4"
through the fibreglass, and in that case works well cutting through
tape. Heavier tape works better, just make sure it doesn't have any
plastic in it (eg don't be a quack and use duck tape.) I would rent the
circular saw from your local rent-all if you don't already have one. The
circular saw will make a very smooth, clean cut, much better than the best
you can do with any up-down type blade (you can't do round hatches with a
circular saw, however.)

Bill



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