Re: Rerigging keel lift system on P19

From: Bill Combs (ttursine@earthlink.net)
Date: Sun Feb 13 2000 - 11:49:48 PST


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> on 2/13/00 11:30 AM, Ted Duke at tduke@rockbridge.net wrote:

> I replaced the stainless wire (which had jumped the track more
> than once and damaged the old blocks) with Yale Lite. I tried
> 3/8ths's, but it was too hard to crank, like the wire. I then went to
> 1/4", which works really well. Cranks easy, doesn't scratch you when
> you brush against it. The double blocks reduce the load when you
> crank and also on the line. I am informed by competent persons that
> the Yale lite is more than adequate with double blocks. BOATUS catalog
> lists 1/4" Yale Lite breaking strength as 2500#. Since the keel
> weighs around 310# and the double blocks reduce that by some factor
> (ask the engnear) there is plenty of margin. Besides, if it broke I
> would rather it was a Yale light line rather than a WILD STAINLESS
> WIRE. I never let the keel hang on the lines, just like it never hung
> on the wire. It's either resting on the (2) bolts thru the keel
> housing when up or resting on the keel housing when down.

I are an engenear. I used 3/16" line (New England Ropes' highest strength
version) and did not double the blocks. Works just fine.

Also, I strongly recommend leaving some tension on the line (or the cable in
normal cases) when the keel is up. Most of the weight should rest on the
keel trunk, but movement both lateral and lengthwise is minimized or
eliminated by allowing the top of the keel to act as a minor point of
support. This will also usually keep the cable/line from jumping out of the
sheaves on the turning blocks and prevent tangles and overwraps on the winch
drum. For the same reason, it's best to keep a *small* amount of tension on
the lifting gear even when the keel is down.

Regards,
Bill Combs

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WWP 19 #439 (Aug 1987) "Ursa Minor"
Fort Walton Beach FL
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