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West Wight Potter Mailing List maintainer
dfarrell@ridgecrest.ca.us
List hosted by www.tscnet.com
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I've heard of such. Perhaps a one inch pipe would work, although given the
overall weight of a Potter 15, I wonder if anything would be necessary.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis W. Farrell" <dfarrell@ridgecrest.ca.us>
To: "WWPotter Mailing List" <wwpotter@tscnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Hull Painting
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> West Wight Potter Mailing List maintainer
> dfarrell@ridgecrest.ca.us
> List hosted by www.tscnet.com
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> You may have thought of it, but one should be careful about the
thwartships
> crushing force applied by slings without a suitable spreader. I didn't
> think about it (another boat, another story) and had to make good some
> damage.
>
> -- dwf
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Smith <michaelconniesmith@home.com>
> To: Brucemagil@aol.com <Brucemagil@aol.com>; jbettes@gwstudio.com
> <jbettes@gwstudio.com>
> Cc: wwpotter@tscnet.com <wwpotter@tscnet.com>
> Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 15:36
> Subject: Re: Hull Painting
>
>
> >- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> > West Wight Potter Mailing List maintainer
> > dfarrell@ridgecrest.ca.us
> > List hosted by www.tscnet.com
> >- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >All the discussion I see about how to raise a Potter 15 from a trailer to
> >work on bottom or remove centerboard reminds me that before I bought ours
> (a
> >couple of months ago), I had read such discussions and wondered about
using
> >a shop crane. I have a new Harbor Freight catalog (it says free
shipping)
> >which lists a one ton shop crane for $189. Its boom length extends from
> 389
> >to 54.25" which would seem enough to reach the middle of a potter. Its
> boom
> >height extends from 15 to 73.25". Wouldn't a couple of nylon sling
straps
> >under the boat going to a center point to which the boom's hook was
> attached
> >work? I also would think a simple chain hoist similarly attached would
> work
> >great, as would a "come along." For the chain hoist or "come along," a
> >secure garage rafter, perhaps (or no doubt for sure) with additional side
> >supports would work. As would a hearty tree limb. Mike
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Brucemagil@aol.com>
> >To: <jbettes@gwstudio.com>
> >Cc: <wwpotter@tscnet.com>
> >Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 1:22 PM
> >Subject: Re: Hull Painting
> >
> >
> >> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >> West Wight Potter Mailing List maintainer
> >> dfarrell@ridgecrest.ca.us
> >> List hosted by www.tscnet.com
> >> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >> In a message dated 3/31/00 11:25:05 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> >> jbettes@gwstudio.com writes:
> >>
> >> << Bettes >>
> >> The suggestions were to paint the bow and then the stern anternatively.
> >> Since the trailor jack esentially tilts the trailor, to lift the stern
> you
> >> would lower the trailor jack all of the way thus raising the transom.
> >> Support the transome with wood and cushoning material in this attitude
> >then
> >> raise the trailor jack. This will separate the back half of the boat
> from
> >> the trailor so that you can get at the bottom to paint it. To saparate
> >the
> >> bow, you would do the opposite: Raise the jack all the way, support the
> >bow
> >> in this attitude, then lower the jack.
> >> Other helpful tips were to cover the trailor so as to keep the
bottom
> >> paint off of the trailor. The trailor strap will need to be loosened
and
> >the
> >> bow winch strap will need to be loosened.
> >> Another good tip I've read in sailing mag was to use a good masking
tape
> >> that will come off when you're done without having to scrape it off
after
> >the
> >> sun has welded it to the hull.
> >>
> >> Happy paintin!
> >>
> >> Bruce
> >>
> >
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Apr 30 2000 - 03:27:08 PDT