Paul,
Though many Potter owners probably will not 'fess-up, I'd
wager $$ that the port side of most P15 and P19 kick-up rudders
have "grooves" and varnish that do not match the original factory
specifications. Adding "character" to the kick-up rudder is a rite
of passage for new Potter owners so don't feel bad. BTW, after
sanding use a varnish that is specifically formulated for marine
under-water applications---not all types are created equal. Applying
several coats will also help cut down the amount of time required
for subsequent sanding...
As you discovered, at slow motor speeds P19's have
a great deal in common with hot-air balloons and toboggans.
The brakes also leave something to be desired... You did not
mention your actual docking approach but, given the P19's
handling characteristics, we found that in most cases it is much
easier to use a "U-turn" approach when parallel docking. Simply
put, slowly approach the dock on a parallel course about 40'
out from the dock. When the bow is even with the far end of the
dock, make a sharp U-turn towards the dock. The U-turn bleeds
off all forward momentum and (especially if you have the board
up) the P19's flat-bottom side-slip will ease the boat right up to
and parallel with the dock. With the board is down and rudder
lowered, the turning radius of the P19 is a bit more and the
side-slip less. The "U-turn" parallel docking approach looks
like this (hope this comes out ok, I used spaces instead of
tabs):
o-----------o------------o
| Dock |
o-----------o------------o
----->---->
/
|
\
-------<-------------<-------------< Boat)
Best to practice a bit first in open water to find your P19's slow
speed turn radius (at very slow speed with no rudder, the board up
and the motor hard over, our P19/5hp Nissan combination can be
turned in about a boat length, but a somewhat wider turn is a bit
smoother). The port and starboard turn radius will differ slightly due
to the off-set engine. Conditions permitting, docking on the port
(motor) side is best since you are in position to fend off the dock.
Conversely, we also carry a small combination paddle/docking
pole in the cockpit to reach for the docking lines (or beat off
amorous alligators in the mating season) if necessary.
Although the kick-up rudder comes in handy if you run
aground or beach, IMHO the dammed thing is hard to raise/lower
and difficult to use in the kick-up position. I don't like sanding
and since we live and dock on a sometimes "very thin" tidal
canal we probably do much more shallow water motoring then
most Potter drivers. There are a lot of sawdust-prevention
"kick-up rudder/engine lash-ups" discussed in the archives, but
we found that it is easiest to simply remove the rudder and use
only the motor to maneuver or dock while in thin water.
When we remove/attach the rudder on the water, the
skipper (aka, wife) keeps a firm grasp on the tiller handle while I
hold the rudder vertically and guide it into or out of the brackets.
A squirt of silicone spray on the male/female metal fittings every
couple of weeks helps as does some practice drill in calm water.
In rougher water conditions ( > 15 knots) this technique is not
for the fainthearted, but it works really well for us and we have
been doing it now for over seven months without mishap. Key
thing is to have the motor in neutral and locked BEFORE
attaching or removing the rudder. Of course, one should never
remove the rudder (or completely raise the dagger board) while
the sails are up...
Cheers,
Jim Leith, P19 #992, G'day
Bradenton, FL