Valerie and I just returned yesterday from a 6-day, 121 mile adventure
aboard our P19, Windsong #352. This is the short version of the story.
(it's still long - sorry)
Beautiful sunshine accompanied our launch from Coronet Bay near Deception
Pass between Fidalgo and Whidbey Island, Washington. There was a boiling
ebb running through the pass which gave us a wild ride out into the Rosario
Straits. We crossed the 6 mile wide strait and entered the San Juans
through Lopez pass. Great wind from behind as we sail up Lopez Sound.
Fought alot of current and slop from passing ferries and stink pots around
the north end of Lopez island, and had to take turns bailing out the water
from centerboard slurpage with a large sponge. Headed to a favorite
overnight spot at Turn Island, but all the state provided moorings (this is
a state Marine Park) were in use, and the holding ground is not good (we
tried to set the hook for half an hour with no luck). Gave up anchoring and
pulled into Deer Harbor, Orcas Island and tied up to the dock for the
night. Dollar per foot for moorage!
Just as we sat down to eat dinner at the cockpit table, the fella on the
next boat comes over an offers us fresh Dungeness Crabs - already cleaned
and cooked just minutes before! What a nice addition to our little feast.
Slept well - that new V berth board I added makes that a fine place for the
two of us to sleep.
Crossed Boundary Pass into Canada next morning, clear customs, and stop to
fish. I catch a rock cod, and before I can fillet it, Valerie catches 5
more! A pair of Bald Eagles swept down from their Saturna Island lookout
trees to snatch up the first two carcasses I tossed overboard. On to Winter
Cove that afternoon for oystering, walking on the beach, sunbathing, etc.
This anchorage is one of the most well protected, quiet, relatively
little-used anchorages I know of...please don't tell anyone about it!
We haul the portable BBQ to shore for a fine evening meal of fresh oysters,
cod, and veggies from our garden at home. Great night - only one anchor
check, as holding ground is good, and there is no worrisome currents to
bother about. Next morning, we go gunkholing around some of the little used
back channels between the smaller islands in the vacinity before chugging
up to Montague Harbour, Galiano Island, BC. Rode the old red "pub bus" to
the hummingbird pub for refreshment and a fine meal in the evening. Moorage
at the little marina here is $10 (that's six-fifty canadian, folks -
cheap!). Topped up our water and fuel tanks before bed.
The following day, I slipped out of the harbor while Valerie slept in and
cruised through some little passages I have avoided on previous trips to
this area on big charter boats (Catalina 34's, Seacraft 24's, etc.) due to
the relative shallowness. No problem for Windsong with that shallow draft!
Headed back south and were escorted by a small group of about 7 Dahl's
porpoises across the border to US waters. Nice overnight stay at Reid
Harbor Marine Park, Stuart Island. Val digs steamer clams with her hands,
and an old shell to accompany that evenings T-bones. Once again it seems we
are the smallest vessel in the harbor. An otter entertains us all
afternoon, playing and diving near the shore.
Side trip the next day to Nature Conservency owned/managed Yellow Island.
Anchor offshore, and paddle our kayak into the delightfull little cove
where the caretakers cabin is. No one home, or anywhere on the island for
that matter. Lots of seals laying on the beach, some with their young
beside them. We see a number of seals munching on salmon in the passes
between the islands, gulls hovering around waiting for the scraps. Some
great sailing off East Sound, Orcas Is. - 5 knots on a beam reach, with
Mount Baker towering over Obstruction Pass, our heading for the afternoon.
The last night we anchored off Doe Bay Resort - a sort of a left over
hippie-colony-turned-resort-for-the-unconventional. As Valerie are
something less than conventional, we delight in the laid back atmosphere of
Doe Bay. Took advantage of the 'clothing optional' mineral water-fed hot
tubs, beach, and saunas.
Uncomfortable night aboard, as a light southerly sprang up causing Windsong
to roll a bit. Each roll brought the inevitable slurp of a tablespoon or
more of water aboard through the centerboard trunk. We bailed several
gallons out at 2am, and more at 6. Little sleep. Dense fog in the morning
greeted us, but we had taken compass bearings for our intended heading
across the Rosario Strait the previous evening, so it didn't stop us. We
took it slow, and occasionally stopped the outboard to listen for ships
(there is alot of shipping traffic in there - tugs with tows, oil tankers,
etc. plus recreational boaters). Motor acted up (Tired from over 100 miles
I guess), so we altered our course for Cap Sante Marina on Fidalgo island
in order to save hours of upwind sailing, or unreliable motoring to get to
our planned pull-out location. Fast sail into the marina under jib, and
sputtering outboard.
Took a cab to get our truck/trailer, then hauled Windsong out using the
sling launch at Cap Sante. This was a bit challenging as it was necessary
to take the mast down to use the sling, and they wouldn't let us do it
right next to the dock where the sling is located, but told us to do
several hundred yards away at the guest dock. We can't steer with the mast
down, as the mast crutch uses the gudgeons where the rudder goes
(Arrrrrgggghh!!). Ended up tying the mast half-assedly on deck, and then
motoring (sputtering) to the sling. All in a narrow marina with strong
cross winds. A second set of gudgeons would have been handy then! Now we're
home putting Aloe on our sunburns and wishing the house would stop rocking.
One of our best sailing trips ever!
Tom & Valerie
P19 #352 Windsong
Whidbey Island, WA