Re: Bernie's bilge and other things

SolarFry@aol.com
Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:41:41 EDT


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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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In a message dated 5/31/99 1:09:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
slithytove@earthlink.net writes:

<< Subj: Bernie's bilge and other things
Date: 5/31/99 1:09:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: slithytove@earthlink.net (Bernard Johnson)
To: wwpotter@tscnet.com (West Wight Potter - Post)

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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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I have a '99 P15. There is a bilge drain plug and also the normal
cockpit drain. The cockpit drain is normally above the waterline and is
of no concern to me from an ingress point of view; to the contrary, it
is so small as to be useless. The bilge drain is underwater, indeed the
deepest part of the hull. This makes sense in that the purpose of it is
to DRAIN the bilge. The hole is about the same size as the cockpit
drain. I haven't timed it, and I don't intentionally plan on doing so,
but it takes a long time to get a sizable amount of water into the boat
through this small hole. (Imagine trying to fill the boat by pouring
through the neck of a wine bottle!). Nevertheless, it is essential that
this underwater through hull NOT leak, and to the credit of IM, the
integrity of the seal has been well addressed. The drain is sealed by a
screw plug in combination with an "O" ring. I believe the "O" ring is
acting as a face seal rather than a radial seal (I don't know because I
still can't find mine), but with only moderate (finger tight)
compression should provide more than adequate sealing. I would have
preferred a radial seal but I can live with it. I wouldn't dream of
using a cork or similar except in an emergency (like when you forget the
REAL plug). >>

********************

The actual hole size inside 3/4" cockpit and bilge drains is approximately
3/8 inch. I've notice that most electric pump mfgrs recommend a 3/4" inch
hose - coupled to the 3/4 inch drain which actually has a 3/8" pass through
hole... Figure that one out.

My boat has been floating in salt water since January and has not leaked a
drop of water through any through hull. It does leak a few drops throught the
forestay stanchion in bow.

<< What appalled me about my incident was how much water can be taken on
even with the IM provided floatation. There is a tremendous volume of
(in my opinion) dead space inside the hull below the waterline. As I
have mentioned before, it is my intention to fill this dead space with
pour in foam. ( I am going to buy some tomorrow - 10 cu. ft. for $88).
Once this is done, any accidental leaks below the waterline can safely
be disregarded since there will be nowhere for them to leak into.
Taking care of underwater ingress does not help however if one finds a
way to introduce water from ABOVE the waterline (waves, a knock down, or
in my case, going turtle). In this case there will be an unacceptable
volume of water trapped in the cabin AND in the cockpit (the puny little
cockpit drain being useless). It has been pointed out that the water
level in the cabin presumably would stabilize at the level of the top of
the keel trunk since the water would drain down the slot, which it
would, but the area available for drainage here is still quite small.
Personally, I want to get water out as fast as possible, and the more I
can be helped by gravity the happier I will be. First of all one or more
large drains (with appropriate covers for fair weather sailing) are
needed in the cockpit. This gets water out of the cockpit reasonably
quickly. The burden is then placed upon getting water out of the cabin.
I propose to do this by venting the cabin into the cockpit at the
cockpit floor level. I am contemplating the installation of a
rectangular hatch (complete with cover of course). The hatch of course
would only be opened in dire circumstances.
I had placed a dangerous amount of faith, and obtained an unrealistic
comfort from the knowledge that the production P15 will not sink.
Believe me, not sinking is NOT enough. Trying to cling to the smooth
underside of a turtled Potter in the kind of conditions that lead to it
being turtled, with maybe 6 inches of hull above the water is not my
idea of survival. Assuming the boat is able to be righted, it would be
so low in the water as to be liable to being swamped by waves faster
than it could be emptied. A further complication being that there would
be a very unstable mass of water shifting position inside the hull
encouraging the boat to roll over again.
I have installed hatch boards. These are much stronger than the (again
in my opinion) highly inadequate piece of plywood supplied with the
stock boat. The include individual seals from board to board together
with overlapping baffles. The boards will eventually have the capability
of being locked together into a single unit. The main cabin hatch is
highly unsatisfactory from a watertight point of view, having huge gaps
under the lips, and suitable only for keeping out rain (to a certain
extent). I plan to do something about this, but as yet I am still
mulling over possible solutions. With these two areas improved, the boat
will more closely approach a corked bottle when desired in heavy
weather. Other benefits of hatch boards is that they can be
incrementally be inserted or removed, the are very easy to handle and
stow, and can be laid across the cockpit seats to serve as a table. To
my mind they also look more shipshape.

On another note, I have been thinking about mast step forces and sailing
using an apparent wind created by drifting in a current. Regarding mast
step forces, I have not spent a lot of time on analysis, but off the
cuff I would say that the compressive force on the step of a P15 would
never exceed 400# . What was the concensus (if any) regarding the
possibility of sailing into an apparent wind? I missed most of the
discussion having been on vacation. It's all relative you know :-)....

I want you all to know that this has been written in a light hearted
vein, all the while my eyes shining with humor, and a pleasant smile on
my face.......... It is easy to misinterpret when one does not have the
benefit of facial and body language feedback......

Regards to all.......Bernie Johnson >>

*****************
I have been close to a knockdown quite a few times in my new P19 due to fact
I do not like to reef, use a genoa and sail in a small canal where winds
range from 3MPH to 25 MPH within a 3/4 mile. Also, I am pig headed... In all
cases, letting go completely of tiller resulted in boat jumping back upright
immediately. Releasing jib/foresail sheets kept it from repeating performance
in a different tack.

I have been involved in a few uppendings (hull upside down stick pointing at
ocean floor) and enjoyed quite a few knockdowns (mast horizontal floating in
ocean). From what I learned from knockdowns I recommend the following:

If winds get over 15 MPH using a lapper or genoa you must close cabin cockpit
hatch with padlock.

If winds get over 20 MPH you must always lock cabin hatch and be ready to let
go of tiller. YES! let go of tiller and foresail sheets. YES! tiller it is
not a security blanket! Let go of foresail sheets also to prevent repeating
the start of a knockdown. You MUST emphatically order all crew members to
wear their life jackets tight. You must reef mainsail and/or jib.

If winds exceed 30 MPH you must be ready for anything.

If ocean waves exceed 6' - 8' you may not be able to return to inlet or go
into a harbor without becoming a submarine or rolling over at inlet... Stay
outside unless forecast is for worse weather. In that case radio in to any
harbor or police that you will attempt to enter inlet and they should keep an
eye out for you. Raise a flag so they can recognize you. In these conditions
a small headsail and no main with boom tied down is preferred to a reefeed
mainsail. Collect all lines and store them below. Roll mainsheet and tie it
securely to prevent getting trapped in it if rolled over.

It takes a breaking wave or an open cockpit hatch to flood any sailboat and
imperil those aboard.

Uppendings are result of cabin flooding from a knockdow or a breaking wave
rolling vessel.

Sail safe...

Best
SF