Re: Holes in mast

Bernard Johnson (slithytove@earthlink.net)
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 20:18:28 -0700


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West Wight Potter Website at URL
http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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Rich, wood does not have "memory" so fatigue is not a consideration, On the
other hand aluminum is most definitely subject to fatigue. The column subject to
buckling in a Potter mast is the section BELOW the holes, i.e. the attachment
for the shrouds, therefore any stress concentration resulting from these holes
has minimal effect. Also the amount of compressive force that can be applied to
the mast is a function of the righting moment of the boat, and is quite limited.
Dwyer mast provides section modulii for the Potter mast sections, and one can
make intelligent estimates of the maximum compressive force possible for the
mast to experience before the boat capsizes. I wouldn't woory about it.

Regards, Bernie Johnson.

Rich Duffy wrote:

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> West Wight Potter Website at URL
> http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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> A note about filling old holes.
>
> Most of what I know about structures comes from the wonderful books
> of a British engineer, J. E. Gordon. In one of his books he writes
> about wooden masts and notes that putting in nails and screws seems
> to do little damage, but he warns against removing old ones,
> suggesting that doing so considerably weakens the structure. Instead,
> he suggests cutting them of flush.
>
> I've spent some time puzzling over this because, when I bought my old
> wood-spar P-14, it came with an bent old mast that had failed --
> right at the point where a previous owner had filled some old holes
> with some kind of wood putty.
>
> Gordon's description does not match his usual lucidity, but it seems
> that he's suggesting that the failure begins at the hole as a
> compression crease, stating that compression creases behave quite
> similarly to the more well-understood phenomenon of cracks in
> tension. He didn't go further into detail and I've never pursued the
> issue.
>
> I assume that Gordon's advice about not removing old screw was
> premised on the notion that a screw or nail that was forced into a
> spar would , logically, be a stronger compressive element than the
> surrounding material (demonstrably true since the fastener crushed
> the spar material as it was inserted). It's hard to imagine how you
> could fill the old hole with as effective a device as the screw you
> removed
>
> In the case of *my* mast, it's not simple to tell what happened. The
> failure seems to have been a tension failure. But it's likely that it
> could fail in tension after being weakened in compression. Masts are
> special-case beams in that they are subject to a routine flip-
> flopping of forces. In the case of my mast, the whole picture is very
> much complicated by the fact that the previous owner obviously
> flipped the mast fore-to-aft, moving all the fittings, undoubtedly in
> an attempt to counteract a very bad S-bend in the mast. Obviously the
> stays were improperly adjusted, so much so that the mast deformed.
>
> How applicable is this to aluminum? I dunno. Wood and metal are very
> different materials. But I'd expect that many of the issues are the
> same.
>
>
> Rich Duffy
> P-14 #362 Kula, HI
>
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> > West Wight Potter Website at URL
> > http://www.lesbois.com/wwpotter/
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> > One problem with drilling holes in the mast for hardware, wires, etc is
> > that the holes create stress points in the mast when it bends. Depending
> > on the forces on the mast from the stays and the sail, parts of the mast
> > can be in compression or in tension or remain neutral. From the
> > standpoint of optimum mast strength would it be best to drill holes on the
> > front of the mast, on the back of the mast or on the side of the mast? Are
> > there anything like PEM nuts that I can insert into the holes to reduces
> > their effects as a stress point? Would filling the old holes with weld
> > material be beneficial? Jim Nolan P-19, P-15, L138T, LGYC #6
> >
> >
> >
> >