Re: [WWP] Have the "keel" galvanized?

From: Scott Pack (scott.pack@pictureiq.com)
Date: Fri May 12 2000 - 09:32:52 PDT


"Judith Franklin Blumhorst, DC" wrote:

> tough enough, or water resistant enough, IMO. Somebody may know of a paint
> that does the trick, but I don't.

There is a product called Extend, now it's a Naval Jelly product of a different
name, which converts rust to an inert material that can be directly painted
over. It works well, but I have no idea how it would work in a marine
environment. Probably okay for trailered boats though.

> Why not use epoxy? It's super adhesive, tough, and a darned good moisture
> barrier. It's easy enough with the West System by Gugeon Brothers. I've
> never had a bad batch since I switched to using West System, with their
> metered pump system.

I think that is the key, proper mixing ratios. You cannot 'eyeball' it. I use
a scale to weigh the proper amounts. Most manufacturers will state whether
their mixing ratios are by weight or volume, but if not assume by volume. I use
Fiberlay ProGlass for general purpose and use the volume ratio for weight, and
it works fine. I also have some super special stuff from MGS that I use for
molding which specifically states the two ratios. By volume they are 6:1, by
weight they are 40:1! West is by many regarded as the best epoxy, but there are
other brands just as suitable such as System 3. Just don't buy general-purpose
hardware store 'Builders' epoxy.

> blushing" which can affect how your bottom paint cures. In any event, you
> have to lightly sand the epoxy for the paint to grip, and then wash it
> thoroughly with water to remove the amines. And try a test section to make
> sure your bottom paint cures over epoxy. Micron CSC paint cured fine over
> new epoxy on my keel last November.

Some but not all epoxies when cured form a waxy layer on top, which is the amine
blush. You should remove the waxy amine blush layer before sanding, since it
will just gum up the sandpaper. I don't think water will remove the wax
though. Acetone or denatured alcohol will do the job. Go easy on the rubbing
since both are epoxy solvents and the epoxy is unlikely fully cured.

-Scott

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